La Vida Alcalaína

In August 2004 Matthew Coman, an Englishman who had made his home in Alcalá, staged the town's first music festival.  He invited colleagues from a group of classical musicians, known as The Soloists of London, to spend a week in the pueblo and give concerts in the beautiful patio of the Sagrada Familia school (SAFA), a former convent on the Plaza Alta. The Soloists of London in the SAFA patio Poster from the fifth festival in 2008 In 2009 the festival including a performance by a group of young musicians from around the province, after a week of rehearsals under Coman's supervision. This  inspired a painting by the late Jesús Cuesta Arana, which was used for that year's poster. Poster artwork from the 2009 festival, by the late Jesús Cuesta Arana Young musicians rehearsing for their concert For the following few years the festival remained focused on classical music, even staging a production of La Traviata in the church. Tickets weren't available in advance in those da...

Mother's Day in Spain is celebrated on the first Sunday in May.  This is the month of the Virgin Mary, and who better to represent motherhood with all its joys and sorrows? In Alcalá the local representation of the mother of Jesus, Nuestra Señora de los Santos, arrived yesterday on her quadrennial visit to the pueblo of which she is patron.  Her image was transported on an ox-drawn cart from the Santuario where it is normally kept, a few miles from the town, accompanied by hundreds of alcalaínos in festive mood and a band comprised of fifes and drums. Meanwhile back in the town the image of Jesús el Nazareno was carried from the newly restored Franciscan church on the Alameda, known as La Victoria, down the steep street named after the Virgin - Calle Nuestra Señora de los Santos. Eventually the two came together on the Prado, a stretch of meadowland next to the the Rio Barbate. The whole process has taken about six hours so far but we're not finished yet.  María was trans...

Easter in Spain is a big deal, and unlike Britain it's not all about chocolate eggs and Easter bunnies, but the crucifixion of Christ and the suffering of his mother.  It goes on for over a week and involves street processions - lots of them. There are four  hermandades  or brotherhoods in Alcalá, each with its own costume and images, and each one organises its own procession, carrying heavy floats called  pasos  bearing statues of Jesus and Mary ( imagenes ). Some go back centuries, others went into remission in the 19th century and were revived more recently. They are closely-knit societies, often family-based, and spend the year raising funds to repair and maintain their kit. In theory anyone can join if they pay the fees and obtain the approval of the other members. Women have been allowed in since the early 1980s, but with a limited role. So let's get the pointy hat thing out of the way - it has nothing to do with the KKK.  It dates back the 15th Centu...

Christmas in the pueblo is very different to what I remember about Christmas in England. It's about family, primarily, but the Nativity itself isn't forgotten. There isn't the same orgy of consumerism beginning in September, as most people don't start shopping until well into December.  Although Papa Noel is a bigger presence than he was twenty years ago, it's the three wise men, los Reyes, who bring the main gifts on 5 January. People gather in the street for zambombas, meeting old friends who have come home for Christmas and enjoying flamenco carols you can sing along with and dance to. The stress of one person cooking a meal for twelve people on the Big Day making sure everything is hot at the same time just doesn't happen, because different family members bring contributions to the Nochebuena and Nochevieja dinners, which take three hours to eat rather than twenty minutes - then after midnight the younger generation heads for a big party organised by the tow...